Weaving glossary

1. WARP

Warp (1) is the set of lengthwise threads attached to a loom and it is the core supporting element of the designed fabric. During the design process, it is necessary to determine the length of the warp and the number of threads forming it, which depends on the density of the fabric we want to achieve and its width.

2. WEFT

Weft (2) is the transverse set of threads and it is drawn through and inserted over and under the warp during weaving process using a weaving shuttle, according to the pattern, i.e. weave.

4. POOLING

This is a weft dyeing technique by which patches/patterns can be achieved on the woven fabric. The type of pattern is achieved by appropriately selecting the diameter of the weft skein, so you can achieve anything from an even gradation throughout the fabric to patterned stripes or patches of colour.

5. CLASPED WEFT

This is a weaving technique that involves introducing two different coloured wefts in one shuttle throw, they are introduced from opposite directions, joined in the middle, and then brought out in opposite directions (in the same shuttle throw or the next one). In this way, a clear colour separation can be achieved on the two halves of the fabric, this technique is more time-consuming than traditional weaving.

This is a decorative drawn thread work or openwork sewing technique for embellishing and securing the hem of the fabric. It can be as decorative as embroidery. It prevents the weft at the edges from ripping. It is done by hand, usually while the fabric is still on the loom.

Leno lace, also called a ladder or ladder hemstitch, is an openwork decorative element in which there is a break in the weft, usually trimmed with a hemstitch. The ladder can take many forms, from the simple ladder (just a break in the weft and a hemstitch hem) to more complex forms reminiscent of lace and embroidery.

This is a type of flat weave technique. The technique of making a soumak involves wrapping wefts over a certain number of warp threads before drawing them back, the intervals are equal. In my fabrics at MAVA Loom, I use it as a decorative chain or braid.

One option for finishing the fabric is to leave the warp threads as fringes. The edge can be hemstitched, machine stitched (zig-zag) or it is possible to tie knots on the edge of the fabric. In my fabrics, I have a choice of threads left as loose fringes, twisted or mixed (loose, twisted, braids) with the possibility of adding beads.

A colour block is nothing more than a piece of fabric woven with a weft in a different, distinctive colour. In this way, ornaments and different compositions can be created on the fabric, also in a different variation of the main weave.

Inlays are added threads to the fabric, usually visibly thicker than the weft. At MAVA Loom I use handspun merino wool, silk or plant-based viscose yarns made by hand by talented local spinners. I sometimes use the abbreviation HS in the descriptions, which comes from the word handspun.

Long wraps that are used as baby slings usually feature a centre tag to make them easier to wrap. I offer complimentary MAVA Loom logo tags placed in the centre of the fabric, but variations are also possible, ranging from inlays, clasped wefts and soumaks to more complex embroidery as a middle marker. In the case of hand embroidery, I work with local embroiderers who will prepare an individual embroidery on the fabric.

When it comes to decorative elements on the fabric, the sky is the limit (and time). It is possible to combine multible weaving and dyeing techniques to create a unique ornament. You can always contact me and together we can come up with one of a kind embellishments.